Analysing the economic effects and business catalysts of the iconic movement
The Skin-Lightening Industry of India is a multi-billion-dollar worth, and $500 million is spent every year on every possible mode to lighten skin; be it on products like fairness creams, laser and injections, or skin treatment services. Major cosmetic giants, such as Garnier, Neutrogena, Nivea and Ponds, sell a variety of products to suppress Melanin- a pigment that is responsible for skin colour in human beings.
What’s in the name? Well, survival! Paste words like ‘Brightening’, ‘Glow’, or ‘Even Tone’ and save your product. Even skincare brands believed to be the elixir for your skin, such as Kama Ayurveda and WOW, seem to have skin ‘Brightening’ products, which contain ingredients such as Glutathione. Ironically, the word ‘Fair’ has not been dropped because of the woke attitude of the brands but after #BlackLivesMatter caught global attention. The Beauty Industry was severely hit by the recent wave of anti-discrimination movement with numerous people coming out and criticising colourism fearlessly. Actor Abhay Deol has been continuously calling out brands and his colleagues, who endorse such products via various social & mass media platforms. In his article for Hindustan Times, he wrote: “Advertising preaches that we would get a better job, a happier marriage and more beautiful children if we were fair. We are conditioned to believe that life would have been easier had we been born fairer.” Popular UAE-based Indian Youtuber Jovita George, who has been an advocator of the movement, recently made a video about the skin lightening brands she turned down as their products included glutathione. She lashed out at Garnier for a product, with a misleading advertisement, that claims of ‘brightened skin and reduced spots in 1 week’.
[Photo Source: Amazon.in]
Brands show a distorted image of reality in advertisements: by claiming a happier & successful life as soon as dark complexion is fixed after using their fairness creams. ‘Dark is Beautiful’ campaign was started in 2009, to fight against the prevalent colourism. The team and 30,000 others people submitted a petition against Emami in January 2014 and was called out to withdraw a particularly discriminatory advertisement for ‘Fair and Handsome’. Later Mr. Goenka, Managing Director of Emami group, refused to withdraw the advertisement pointing out the demand for fairness creams and their duty to cater to the needs of the society. In June 2014, the fate of the petition changed when the Advertising Council of India (ASCI) stepped with a new set of guidelines for advertisements, addressing the elephant in the room. Firstly, dark skin tone should not be associated with inferiority or disadvantage of any kind, including socio-economic inequality and gender discrimination. No form of negative reinforcement shall be tolerated in context of complexion. Secondly, the expression of the model used should not be negative at all. This led to advertisements by Emami, Fair & Lovely, Clean & Clear, and Garnier etc. being banned. Johnson & Johnson announced that it would no longer produce or sell its ‘Neutrogena Fine Fairness’ and ‘Clean & Clear Fairness’ product lines. Nivea recently pulled out an advertisement in the Middle East with the tagline 'White is Purity', after it was slammed as racist.
[Photo Source: Amazon.in]
Earlier this year, Government of India proposed a law that would make it illegal to market products with false claims related to health, including those that promise to lighten skin. The movement has not only affected cosmetic brands and advertisement agencies, but also Indian matchmaking websites. Shaadi.com decided to remove a filter that allowed people to hand- pick partners based on skin tone after facing a backlash from users that began in North America.
The focus has now shifted to inclusive, organic, and consumer-friendly brands. With an increased level of awareness and knowledge about ingredients, consumers are more attracted to products that match their skin tone. Indian brands like Lakmé have been under attack by consumers for producing a total of 4-5 shades of foundation in every category, for a country with immense richness and diversity. Rihanna, on the other hand, launched a massive 40- shade foundation collection under her brand Fenty Beauty. People from all skin tones are raving about the shade range, quality and price point of the products. Inclusivity coupled with superior quality has garnered an unmatchable position for Fenty beauty in the global cosmetic market.
- Parul Kataria
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